Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems
Danielle from Kansas City wrote to Dry Basement® and Foundation Systems with a few questions. Mark Whitehead, one of Dry Basement®'s Professional Engineers, had the answers.
Q. Is it true that by keeping the moisture content of the soil under my house constant, foundation movement can be stopped?
A. This is often true, but movement can be caused by other factors, such as increased load, vibration, or subsurface changes such as plant or animal activity, frost action, or hydrologic changes. Maintaining constant soil moisture is always beneficial, but this can be a major engineering challange itself.
Q. Is piering a permanent fix to water damage, or an ongoing job?
A. Piering is a repair to provide vertical load support, and its permanence is determined by the design and installation approach. Shallow underpinning may provide success, but permanent load bearing strata may require deeper penetration, which can be provided affordably by hydraulically driven structural steel tubing. This is a major repair project that can encounter subsurface complications, so an experienced contractor with the financial resources to manage these issues is important. The need for future piering for other parts of the building will vary from site to site, but proper installation methods should provide permanent vertical stability to the portion of a foundation supported by piers.
Q. What are the different types of repairing- I am particularly interested in piering, but I am not sure how piering compares to other types of repair.
A. Here is an overview of the various methods of foundation repair.
FOR SINKING FOUNDATIONS (Differential Vertical Movement - Settlement)
MUD JACKING - Injecting grout to fill voids or raise a slab.
PROS:
Good for leveling sidewalks, driveways, patios.
CONS:
Will settle again as soil settles.
Not recommended for foundation walls or footings.
ADJUSTABLE JACK POSTS - Steel posts placed in basement under first floor with screw adjustments to allow for height adjustment.
PROS:
Allows adjustment as movement occurs.
Cheaper than underpinning or piering.
CONS:
Does not stop soil or foundation movement.
When movement of soil or cracking damage occurs this is the sign indicating need for adjustment.
UNDERPINNING - Excavating unstable soil beneath a footing, and filling the void with more stable material.
PROS:
If soil properties are known, and unstable soil is shallow, and firm soil is within a few feet, this can be a low cost, successful repair.
CONS:
If soil properties are unknown, weak soil depth may go beyond the repair depth, and future settlement may occur.
PIERING - Bridging through weaker soil to construct a support capable of carrying the required load.
PROS:
Drilling or driving piers is less expensive than deep excavations to build foundations on solid soil.
CONS:
Obstructions below the soils surface may prevent successful installation.
Can cause damage to existing structures.
Friction Piers - Carry load by soil friction of material driven or drilled in place.
PROS:
Cheaper than driving to solid strata.
CONS:
If there is vibration in the soil or changes in the soil load they will compromise this method.
Unstable soil below pier may move and undermine the pier.
Helical Piers - Helical plate welded to steel shaft, screwed into soil by hydraulic drill
PROS:
Cheaper than full depth piering.
Can be installed quickly.
Increased depth improves tension resistance.
CONS:
Soil disturbed by auger action may move over time.
Water may weaken soil resistance.
Soil below helical plate may move.
Not the strongest repair method available because the strength of the system is in the helical plate and the surrounding soil.
Steel Resistance Piers - Structural Steel Shaft driven hydraulically to supporting strata.
PROS:
Driven full depth, through weak soil, resting on stable strata, not subject to settlement.
CONS:
Must be spaced properly to balance and support the required load.
CRACK INJECTION
PROS:
Crack injection is a common and popular method to quickly stop water leaks and improve the appearance. It is much less expensive than structural repairs that reinforce or add load capacity. It can be effective correcting minor leakage if damaging water pressure or active movement is not present.
CONS:
Rarely does crack repair add structural strength to the concrete. If the stress causing the crack is not removed, a new crack will form after the repair is made. It is very unlikely that a crack repair can reverse the damage from differential foundation movement, or prevent further movement.
FOR BUCKLING OR BOWED FOUNDATION/BASEMENT WALLS (Horizontal or Lateral Wall Movement)
Wall Brace Beams - anchored at top and bottom.
PROS:
Quick to install.
Requires no excavation.
CONS:
Puts the entire load of your basement wall on the weaker floor joists, can cause major problems with your floor joists, upstairs walls and carpentry, etc..
Can cause movement on opposite wall, if earth load is unbalanced.
Structural integrity will likely be lost.
Wall plate tied to anchor rod - with helical plate screwed into outside soil, or steel plate anchor buried outside wall.
PROS:
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
CONS:
Must core large hole in basement wall to insert helix. This will let in water and can further weaken the basement wall.
Obstructions may prevent proper installation.
Anchor strength limited by plate area and soil properties.
Site or soil conditions may allow plate to move.
Steel wall brace system - Structural Steel Wall Brace anchored to Reinforced Concrete Earth Anchor
PROS:
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
Concrete anchor combines mass and soil friction for increased stability.
Can be sized to fit soil properties.
CONS:
Outside excavation required.
Structural integrity of wall must be sound for this method to work.
Wall Straightening
PROS:
Cheaper than replacing wall.
Improves Structural stability, if wall misalignment is excessive.
CONS:
Outside excavation required.
Structural integrity of wall must be sound after straightening.
High Strength Fiber Strapping - Thin fiber / epoxy strap bonded to inside face of wall.
PROS:
Thin strap material has smaller profile than structural steel.
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
Requires no excavation.
CONS:
Structural integrity of wall must be sound.
If wall has excessive misalignment, excavation may be needed to straighten wall.
Bond between strap and wall material may fail from moisture and weathering.
Wall Replacement
PROS:
Can address walls that have failed or are too unstable to repair.
CONS:
High cost.
May not change conditions that damaged wall.
Crack Injection (see above)
Friday, August 10, 2007
Thursday, February 08, 2007
Kansas City Homeowner Updates Crawl Space with CleanSpace® System
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems
The owner of this upscale colonial Kansas City home had an 800 ft. crawlspace adjacent to a state-of-the-art Home Theater in his remodeled basement. The cut limestone foundation allowed moisture to migrate into the crawl space area, causing musty odors the home owner wanted to eradicate. The homeowner asked Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems to help solve his problem.
The Dry Basement® Systems crew tested floor joists in the crawl space area with lift tape slides. Analysis by an independent microbiologist identified multiple species of pathogenic molds growing in the timber flooring material in the damp crawl space area.
In order to repair the moisture problem causing the mold and musty odors, Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems experts recommended the CleanSpace® system.
First, the Dry Basement® crew cleaned the crawl space area with the Anabec® Cleaning system. This process included mechanical cleaning of all accessible structural surfaces and the spray application of a microbial shield, providing long term resistance to microbial and bacterial growth.
Next, the workers graded the floor of the crawl space to direct and collect any free flowing water to a high performance sump pump system. The Super Sump Pump System mechanically removes free water from the crawl space, pumping it outside and away from the home. As added protection, in case of a power outage during a storm event, a high efficiency battery backup system was integrated into the sump pump system. The battery is a high efficiency gel cel unit, designed to deliver over 90 amp-hours during deep discharge and rapid recharge operation. This sump pump system is capable of removing over 5,000 gallons of water with a new, fully charged battery.
After the sump pump system was in place the Dry Basement® crew installed a CleanSpace® crawl space vapor barrier. The vapor barrier consists of a reinforced seven-layer HDPE 20 mil. thick liner which is placed on the bare dirt floor of the crawl space and wrapped up the perimeter foundation walls. This heavy membrane will reduce moisture migration into the crawl space through the earth or foundation walls. The strength of the membrane material prevents puncture during installation, or during future access by maintenance personnel, as well as providing protected dry storage space in the crawl space area.
Finally, the expert installation crew installed a high efficiency SaniDry® crawl space dehumidifier to maintain clean, dry air circulation. Maintaining the relative humidity below 50% prevents the growth of most molds, microbes, and dust mites that contribute to adverse odors and harmful health effects. The 100 pint per day unit was installed with the drain line ducted directly into the sump system, so accumulated water is automatically pumped away from the house.
Post testing by an independent laboratory verified the reduction of mold in this area, and thanks to the CleanSpace® System installed by Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems the homeowner can relax in his Home Theater knowing he won't have to worry about musty odors coming from his crawl space.
The owner of this upscale colonial Kansas City home had an 800 ft. crawlspace adjacent to a state-of-the-art Home Theater in his remodeled basement. The cut limestone foundation allowed moisture to migrate into the crawl space area, causing musty odors the home owner wanted to eradicate. The homeowner asked Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems to help solve his problem.
The Dry Basement® Systems crew tested floor joists in the crawl space area with lift tape slides. Analysis by an independent microbiologist identified multiple species of pathogenic molds growing in the timber flooring material in the damp crawl space area.
In order to repair the moisture problem causing the mold and musty odors, Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems experts recommended the CleanSpace® system.
First, the Dry Basement® crew cleaned the crawl space area with the Anabec® Cleaning system. This process included mechanical cleaning of all accessible structural surfaces and the spray application of a microbial shield, providing long term resistance to microbial and bacterial growth.
Next, the workers graded the floor of the crawl space to direct and collect any free flowing water to a high performance sump pump system. The Super Sump Pump System mechanically removes free water from the crawl space, pumping it outside and away from the home. As added protection, in case of a power outage during a storm event, a high efficiency battery backup system was integrated into the sump pump system. The battery is a high efficiency gel cel unit, designed to deliver over 90 amp-hours during deep discharge and rapid recharge operation. This sump pump system is capable of removing over 5,000 gallons of water with a new, fully charged battery.
After the sump pump system was in place the Dry Basement® crew installed a CleanSpace® crawl space vapor barrier. The vapor barrier consists of a reinforced seven-layer HDPE 20 mil. thick liner which is placed on the bare dirt floor of the crawl space and wrapped up the perimeter foundation walls. This heavy membrane will reduce moisture migration into the crawl space through the earth or foundation walls. The strength of the membrane material prevents puncture during installation, or during future access by maintenance personnel, as well as providing protected dry storage space in the crawl space area.
Finally, the expert installation crew installed a high efficiency SaniDry® crawl space dehumidifier to maintain clean, dry air circulation. Maintaining the relative humidity below 50% prevents the growth of most molds, microbes, and dust mites that contribute to adverse odors and harmful health effects. The 100 pint per day unit was installed with the drain line ducted directly into the sump system, so accumulated water is automatically pumped away from the house.
Post testing by an independent laboratory verified the reduction of mold in this area, and thanks to the CleanSpace® System installed by Dry Basement® & Foundation Systems the homeowner can relax in his Home Theater knowing he won't have to worry about musty odors coming from his crawl space.
Thursday, November 03, 2005
Homeowner replaces failed Grip-Tite® wall anchors with Dry Basement Anchor System (DBAS®)
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems
The owner of this ranch home outside of Kansas City, Missouri found that his basement walls were still bowed, cracked and moving inward even after he had a contractor install the Grip-Tite® wall anchor system. The contractor had also installed a drain mat system to alleviate water seepage into the basement. However, the contractor installed the drain mat backwards and it was useless.
The homeowner called the previous installation contractors to see if they would stand behind their product and remedy the further lateral movement but that contractor is no longer in business.
The flimsy steel anchors (pictured) failed to stand up to the expansive clay soils and do the job of stopping the lateral movement of the basement walls of this house. A job the Dry Basement Anchor System (DBAS®) was made to do.
Therefore, the homeowner called Dry Basement & Foundation Systems to fix his sliding foundation. Dry Basement excavated around the walls, removed the previously installed restraints and installed the Dry Basement Anchor System (DBAS®).
Dry Basement’s expert installation crew was able to straighten the basement walls and stabilize the entire house. Unlike the rod and exterior plate system, the DBAS® system employs a massive concrete anchor buried outside the foundation which is tied to large steel braces inside the basement. Thanks to the expert engineering and sheer mass of the DBAS®, this home will not have any further lateral movement and the basement walls are straightened.
Best of all, the homeowner can rest assured that with Dry Basement, he’s chosen a foundation company with over 30 years of experience that will stand behind it’s work, products, and warranty.
The owner of this ranch home outside of Kansas City, Missouri found that his basement walls were still bowed, cracked and moving inward even after he had a contractor install the Grip-Tite® wall anchor system. The contractor had also installed a drain mat system to alleviate water seepage into the basement. However, the contractor installed the drain mat backwards and it was useless.
The homeowner called the previous installation contractors to see if they would stand behind their product and remedy the further lateral movement but that contractor is no longer in business.
The flimsy steel anchors (pictured) failed to stand up to the expansive clay soils and do the job of stopping the lateral movement of the basement walls of this house. A job the Dry Basement Anchor System (DBAS®) was made to do.
Therefore, the homeowner called Dry Basement & Foundation Systems to fix his sliding foundation. Dry Basement excavated around the walls, removed the previously installed restraints and installed the Dry Basement Anchor System (DBAS®).
Dry Basement’s expert installation crew was able to straighten the basement walls and stabilize the entire house. Unlike the rod and exterior plate system, the DBAS® system employs a massive concrete anchor buried outside the foundation which is tied to large steel braces inside the basement. Thanks to the expert engineering and sheer mass of the DBAS®, this home will not have any further lateral movement and the basement walls are straightened.
Best of all, the homeowner can rest assured that with Dry Basement, he’s chosen a foundation company with over 30 years of experience that will stand behind it’s work, products, and warranty.
Wednesday, October 19, 2005
The various methods of foundation repair
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems
For sinking foundations
MUD JACKING - Injecting grout to fill voids or raise a slab.
PROS:
Good for leveling sidewalks, driveways, patios.
CONS:
Will settle again as soil settles.
Not recommended for foundation walls or footings.
ADJUSTABLE JACK POSTS - Steel posts placed in basement under first floor with screw adjustments to allow for height adjustment.
PROS:
Allows adjustment as movement occurs.
Cheaper than underpinning or piering.
CONS:
Does not stop soil or foundation movement.
When movement of soil or cracking damage occurs this is the sign indicating need for adjustment.
UNDERPINNING - Excavating unstable soil beneath a footing, and filling the void with more stable material.
PROS:
If soil properties are known, and unstable soil is shallow, and firm soil is within a few feet, this can be a low cost, successful repair.
CONS:
If soil properties are unknown, weak soil depth may go beyond the repair depth, and future settlement may occur.
PIERING - Bridging through weaker soil to construct a support capable of carrying the required load.
PROS:
Drilling or driving piers is less expensive than deep excavations to build foundations on solid soil.
CONS:
Obstructions below the soils surface may prevent successful installation.
Can cause damage to existing structures.
Friction Piers - Carry load by soil friction of material driven or drilled in place.
PROS:
Cheaper than driving to solid strata.
CONS:
If there is vibration in the soil or changes in the soil load they will compromise this method.
Unstable soil below pier may move and undermine the pier.
Helical Piers - Helical plate welded to steel shaft, screwed into soil by hydraulic drill
PROS:
Cheaper than full depth piering.
Can be installed quickly.
Increased depth improves tension resistance.
CONS:
Soil disturbed by auger action may move over time.
Water may weaken soil resistance.
Soil below helical plate may move.
Not the strongest repair method available because the strength of the system is in the helical plate and the surrounding soil.
Steel Resistance Piers - Structural Steel Shaft driven hydraulically to supporting strata.
PROS:
Driven full depth, through weak soil, resting on stable strata, not subject to settlement.
CONS:
Must be spaced properly to balance and support the required load.
For buckling or bowed foundation/basement walls
Wall Brace Beams - anchored at top and bottom.
PROS:
Quick to install.
Requires no excavation.
CONS:
Puts the entire load of your basement wall on the weaker floor joists, can cause major problems with your floor joists, upstairs walls and carpentry, etc..
Can cause movement on opposite wall, if earth load is unbalanced.
Structural integrity will likely be lost.
Wall plate tied to anchor rod - with helical plate screwed into outside soil, or steel plate anchor buried outside wall.
PROS:
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
CONS:
Must core large hole in basement wall to insert helix. This will let in water and can further weaken the basement wall.
Obstructions may prevent proper installation.
Anchor strength limited by plate area and soil properties.
Site or soil conditions may allow plate to move.
Steel wall brace system Structural Steel Wall Brace - anchored to Reinforced Concrete Earth Anchor
PROS:
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
Concrete anchor combines mass and soil friction for increased stability.
Can be sized to fit soil properties.
CONS:
Outside excavation required.
Structural integrity of wall must be sound for this method to work.
Wall Straightening
PROS:
Cheaper than replacing wall.
Improves Structural stability, if wall misalignment is excessive.
CONS:
Outside excavation required.
Structural integrity of wall must be sound after straightening.
High Strength Fiber Strapping - Thin fiber / epoxy strap bonded to inside face of wall.
PROS:
Thin strap material has smaller profile than structural steel.
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
Requires no excavation.
CONS:
Structural integrity of wall must be sound.
If wall has excessive misalignment, excavation may be needed to straighten wall.
Bond between strap and wall material may fail from moisture and weathering.
Wall Replacement
PROS:
Can address walls that have failed or are too unstable to repair.
CONS:
High cost.
May not change conditions that damaged wall.
For sinking foundations
MUD JACKING - Injecting grout to fill voids or raise a slab.
PROS:
Good for leveling sidewalks, driveways, patios.
CONS:
Will settle again as soil settles.
Not recommended for foundation walls or footings.
ADJUSTABLE JACK POSTS - Steel posts placed in basement under first floor with screw adjustments to allow for height adjustment.
PROS:
Allows adjustment as movement occurs.
Cheaper than underpinning or piering.
CONS:
Does not stop soil or foundation movement.
When movement of soil or cracking damage occurs this is the sign indicating need for adjustment.
UNDERPINNING - Excavating unstable soil beneath a footing, and filling the void with more stable material.
PROS:
If soil properties are known, and unstable soil is shallow, and firm soil is within a few feet, this can be a low cost, successful repair.
CONS:
If soil properties are unknown, weak soil depth may go beyond the repair depth, and future settlement may occur.
PIERING - Bridging through weaker soil to construct a support capable of carrying the required load.
PROS:
Drilling or driving piers is less expensive than deep excavations to build foundations on solid soil.
CONS:
Obstructions below the soils surface may prevent successful installation.
Can cause damage to existing structures.
Friction Piers - Carry load by soil friction of material driven or drilled in place.
PROS:
Cheaper than driving to solid strata.
CONS:
If there is vibration in the soil or changes in the soil load they will compromise this method.
Unstable soil below pier may move and undermine the pier.
Helical Piers - Helical plate welded to steel shaft, screwed into soil by hydraulic drill
PROS:
Cheaper than full depth piering.
Can be installed quickly.
Increased depth improves tension resistance.
CONS:
Soil disturbed by auger action may move over time.
Water may weaken soil resistance.
Soil below helical plate may move.
Not the strongest repair method available because the strength of the system is in the helical plate and the surrounding soil.
Steel Resistance Piers - Structural Steel Shaft driven hydraulically to supporting strata.
PROS:
Driven full depth, through weak soil, resting on stable strata, not subject to settlement.
CONS:
Must be spaced properly to balance and support the required load.
For buckling or bowed foundation/basement walls
Wall Brace Beams - anchored at top and bottom.
PROS:
Quick to install.
Requires no excavation.
CONS:
Puts the entire load of your basement wall on the weaker floor joists, can cause major problems with your floor joists, upstairs walls and carpentry, etc..
Can cause movement on opposite wall, if earth load is unbalanced.
Structural integrity will likely be lost.
Wall plate tied to anchor rod - with helical plate screwed into outside soil, or steel plate anchor buried outside wall.
PROS:
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
CONS:
Must core large hole in basement wall to insert helix. This will let in water and can further weaken the basement wall.
Obstructions may prevent proper installation.
Anchor strength limited by plate area and soil properties.
Site or soil conditions may allow plate to move.
Steel wall brace system Structural Steel Wall Brace - anchored to Reinforced Concrete Earth Anchor
PROS:
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
Concrete anchor combines mass and soil friction for increased stability.
Can be sized to fit soil properties.
CONS:
Outside excavation required.
Structural integrity of wall must be sound for this method to work.
Wall Straightening
PROS:
Cheaper than replacing wall.
Improves Structural stability, if wall misalignment is excessive.
CONS:
Outside excavation required.
Structural integrity of wall must be sound after straightening.
High Strength Fiber Strapping - Thin fiber / epoxy strap bonded to inside face of wall.
PROS:
Thin strap material has smaller profile than structural steel.
Anchor is independent of floor joist system.
Requires no excavation.
CONS:
Structural integrity of wall must be sound.
If wall has excessive misalignment, excavation may be needed to straighten wall.
Bond between strap and wall material may fail from moisture and weathering.
Wall Replacement
PROS:
Can address walls that have failed or are too unstable to repair.
CONS:
High cost.
May not change conditions that damaged wall.
Monday, October 17, 2005
Foundation Problems Explained
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems (HOME)
It is not uncommon for a house to be built on fill dirt or on a hillside. Have you seen huge earthmoving machines working on a new subdivision? They scrape dirt from the high spots and deposit it on the low areas. The dirt that is used for fill is supposed to be compacted. However, it may not always be. Gravity and water entering the soil over time compacts the loose fill. If the compaction is not the same under the entire foundation, your foundation may fracture.
Also, the Kansas City area is largely composed of clay soils. Some of these clay soils shrink and swell like a sponge in response to the amount of water they contain. This movement can be dramatic. As the soil beneath your foundation dries out, your foundation drops. In wet weather the clay swells and lifts your foundation or can cause the walls of your basement to crack and buckle.
Besides the obvious signs of cracks in basement walls there are many signs of settlement. Many homeowners find that their doors and windows worked fine one day but the next day find that those same doors and windows stick or won't open. Cracks in plaster or dry wall, unevenness along baseboards, or cracks in exterior masonry also indicate foundation problems.
Once these symptoms manifest, it is time to contact a professional to inspect the problems with your foundation.
It is not uncommon for a house to be built on fill dirt or on a hillside. Have you seen huge earthmoving machines working on a new subdivision? They scrape dirt from the high spots and deposit it on the low areas. The dirt that is used for fill is supposed to be compacted. However, it may not always be. Gravity and water entering the soil over time compacts the loose fill. If the compaction is not the same under the entire foundation, your foundation may fracture.
Also, the Kansas City area is largely composed of clay soils. Some of these clay soils shrink and swell like a sponge in response to the amount of water they contain. This movement can be dramatic. As the soil beneath your foundation dries out, your foundation drops. In wet weather the clay swells and lifts your foundation or can cause the walls of your basement to crack and buckle.
Besides the obvious signs of cracks in basement walls there are many signs of settlement. Many homeowners find that their doors and windows worked fine one day but the next day find that those same doors and windows stick or won't open. Cracks in plaster or dry wall, unevenness along baseboards, or cracks in exterior masonry also indicate foundation problems.
Once these symptoms manifest, it is time to contact a professional to inspect the problems with your foundation.
Friday, September 16, 2005
Do you have a wet basement?
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems (HOME)
What causes a wet basement?
Typically, when a house is built, a hole is dug into the earth. If it were to rain, you would expect the hole to fill with water. When you put the house in the hole, the same thing happens - water fills the hole in the looser backfill around the foundation. In areas where the soil has clay in it you get what is called the "Clay Bowl" effect.
When your home was built a hole was dug bigger than the foundation.
The footing was installed first. It is the "foot" of your foundation and prevents it from sinking into the ground.
Then the walls are built (they can be made of poured concrete, block, stone, even treated wood - but this is rare).
Then the footings are backfilled and the floor is poured between the walls.
Then a footing drain is installed. It is perforated pipe in a bed of 3/4" stone. When these stones lay on top of each other, they make 1/2" spaces in between. These spacers are to filter out the dirt from the water.
Finally the foundation is backfilled with the soil that was dug out of the hole. This soil is looser than the virgin earth since it was just disturbed. It will be looser for the life of the house and absorb water quicker than the virgin earth.
The water then builds up in the backfill and causes hydrostatic pressure which pushes the water into the basement through cracks and joints, most commonly the floor-wall joint.
In areas like Kansas City, where the soil has clay in it you get this effect. If you dug a hole in the ground and then it rained, you would expect the hole to fill up with water, right? Well when you put the house in this hole the same thing happens -- the water builds up in the looser backfill around the foundation.
When it comes to solving a wet basement problem, there are many possible solutions, including:
Exterior Excavation
Interior Subfloor
Interior Baseboard System
Negative-side Sealant
Among the best of these methods is to install either an interior subfloor drainage system or a baseboard drainage system along the perimeter of the floor. There are a few challenges to this method however. One is to keep the drain from being clogged by mud over the years. Many homeowners go years without a water problem and then develop one due to the existing sub-floor and sub-surface drains clogging with mud.
Another challenge for subfloor systems is to set up the system to accept water from the walls without leaving a large unsightly gap at the edge of the floor which can collect dirt and debris from the floor - another potential for clogging the drain.
Dry Basement and Foundation Systems installs the patented WaterGuard® system. WaterGuard® is designed to meet these challenges and keep your basement dry permanently. Contact your local Basement Systems basement waterproofing contractor to further discuss the WaterGuard® system.
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems was founded in Kansas City in February 1975 by Otto W. Fleck. It makes us proud that in over 30 years of business right here in the heart of America we have a satisfactory business performance record with the local consumer protection agencies. We have also agreed to approved procedures including mediation and arbitration to resolve any complaints should it ever be necessary. Customer satisfactions has always been and always will be our first priority. Our goal is 100 percent customer satisfaction. Everyone in our company: the owner, the office staff, your estimator, and each member of the crew - everyone - is committed to that goal.
We have a quality control check that puts YOU, the customer, in charge. Here's how it works: when we complete your job the foreman will ask you a few questions about the work done on your home. Your answers can be summarized as excellent, good, fair or poor. If your answers are all excellent to good the entire crew receives a performance bonus. This is one of the several methods we use to achieve our 100-percent customer satisfaction goal.
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems (HOME)
What causes a wet basement?
Typically, when a house is built, a hole is dug into the earth. If it were to rain, you would expect the hole to fill with water. When you put the house in the hole, the same thing happens - water fills the hole in the looser backfill around the foundation. In areas where the soil has clay in it you get what is called the "Clay Bowl" effect.
When your home was built a hole was dug bigger than the foundation.
The footing was installed first. It is the "foot" of your foundation and prevents it from sinking into the ground.
Then the walls are built (they can be made of poured concrete, block, stone, even treated wood - but this is rare).
Then the footings are backfilled and the floor is poured between the walls.
Then a footing drain is installed. It is perforated pipe in a bed of 3/4" stone. When these stones lay on top of each other, they make 1/2" spaces in between. These spacers are to filter out the dirt from the water.
Finally the foundation is backfilled with the soil that was dug out of the hole. This soil is looser than the virgin earth since it was just disturbed. It will be looser for the life of the house and absorb water quicker than the virgin earth.
The water then builds up in the backfill and causes hydrostatic pressure which pushes the water into the basement through cracks and joints, most commonly the floor-wall joint.
In areas like Kansas City, where the soil has clay in it you get this effect. If you dug a hole in the ground and then it rained, you would expect the hole to fill up with water, right? Well when you put the house in this hole the same thing happens -- the water builds up in the looser backfill around the foundation.
When it comes to solving a wet basement problem, there are many possible solutions, including:
Exterior Excavation
Interior Subfloor
Interior Baseboard System
Negative-side Sealant
Among the best of these methods is to install either an interior subfloor drainage system or a baseboard drainage system along the perimeter of the floor. There are a few challenges to this method however. One is to keep the drain from being clogged by mud over the years. Many homeowners go years without a water problem and then develop one due to the existing sub-floor and sub-surface drains clogging with mud.
Another challenge for subfloor systems is to set up the system to accept water from the walls without leaving a large unsightly gap at the edge of the floor which can collect dirt and debris from the floor - another potential for clogging the drain.
Dry Basement and Foundation Systems installs the patented WaterGuard® system. WaterGuard® is designed to meet these challenges and keep your basement dry permanently. Contact your local Basement Systems basement waterproofing contractor to further discuss the WaterGuard® system.
Dry Basement & Foundation Systems was founded in Kansas City in February 1975 by Otto W. Fleck. It makes us proud that in over 30 years of business right here in the heart of America we have a satisfactory business performance record with the local consumer protection agencies. We have also agreed to approved procedures including mediation and arbitration to resolve any complaints should it ever be necessary. Customer satisfactions has always been and always will be our first priority. Our goal is 100 percent customer satisfaction. Everyone in our company: the owner, the office staff, your estimator, and each member of the crew - everyone - is committed to that goal.
We have a quality control check that puts YOU, the customer, in charge. Here's how it works: when we complete your job the foreman will ask you a few questions about the work done on your home. Your answers can be summarized as excellent, good, fair or poor. If your answers are all excellent to good the entire crew receives a performance bonus. This is one of the several methods we use to achieve our 100-percent customer satisfaction goal.
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